Block printing technique has been practiced in India, China, and Japan from as early as the 15th Century BC. Some experts trace the origins of the technique to the early 3rd century. In any case, this process is at least 2000 years old.
Hand block printing is a technique by which a design is printed on the surface of a fabric with the help of a wooden block. The wooden block covered with dye is repeatedly pressed on the surface of the cloth to get a design or pattern.
Usually, synthetic dye is not used in this process. Most hand block printing artisans are traditional practitioners, and they have been using natural dyes as a standard practice. In this process, the design is first carved on a wooden block by hand. Then it is pressed repeatedly on the fabric after dipping in the dye.
Hand Block Printing is completely manual work and no machine is used in the whole process. This also gives the product a unique flair and identity. The beauty of this technique is that it creates a sustainable livelihood for the rural masses of developing countries. Since the process is manual, imperfection is unavoidable in this work. These imperfections actually increase the beauty of the block-printed fabric.
History of Hand Block Printing
Block printing technique has been practiced in India, China, and Japan from as early as the 15th Century BC. Some experts trace the origins of the technique to the early 3rd century. In any case, this process is at least 2000 years old.
In India, this Hand Block Printing finds its trace in the state of Rajasthan. Block printing has been practiced there for more than 500 years. This technique has been passed down from generation to generation.
India has been famous for its printed cotton cloths since the 12th century. Consequently, different forms of block printing have evolved in different places in India. In north India, you find different types of design, while in south India, there are entirely different patterns of this hand block printing.
Culture Aspects
Hand block printing is rooted in the culture of the society in India. The textile tradition of India can be traced back to over 5000 years in the Harappan civilization. From there on, several important centers of this craft developed. Several of these are still thriving and produce very high-quality fabric prints.
Kalamkari is one of the earliest techniques of hand block techniques among the Indian styles. This technique was first developed in Machilipatnam in Andhra Pradesh. It uses vegetable dyes for printing.
The colorful block print of birds, animals, gods, and goddesses is included in the designs of Rajasthan. This type of print is found in the region of Jaipur. People are connected by these figures like animals, gods, and goddesses and these figures are involved in the printing process. These techniques drive their energy directly from the daily lives and toiling of the common man.
Each of these regions has traditionally distinct designs based on their tradition and culture.
Major Printing Styles in India
1. Ajrak
It is a print pattern created through a complex and time-consuming process of stamping and resisting dyeing. In this process, natural dyes made of vegetables are used. It requires great expertise and patience. The Ajrak print patterns are made on Lungi and Turban. These styles can be seen in the areas of Kutch, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Barmer, and other areas along the western desert areas of Gujarat and Rajasthan.
2. Bagh
Bagh print is the major print style of Madhya Pradesh. The name is taken from the village of Bagh situated on the banks of the Bagh river, and the nearby Bagh caves dating back to the 3rd and 5th century CE which are famous for the paintings dedicated to both Hindu as well as Buddhist deities.
The raw materials which are used in this process are locally available and the colors are natural. Bright colors are used in this process and this print is suitable for all types of fabrics whether it is cotton, silk, or chiffon. The designs of this style are inspired by the designs of the Taj Mahal, flowers, mushrooms, and others.
3. Kalamkari
It is also another complex process of block printing on fabric. This style originated in Masulipatnam in Andhra Pradesh. The word Kalamkari is made with two words kalam or pen and Kari or work. This technique of block printing is believed to have originated in the old city of Golconda. From there it spread along the eastern coast up to Tamil Nadu.
The process is very detailed and includes washing, bleaching, and sunning. Alum and Wax are used. After the wax is removed by boiling then other colors are applied, and then detailed coloring is done with a brush. The process is very lengthy which may take several days, weeks, or months depending on the length of the cotton cloth. The blocks used in this process are made by specialist artisans.
4. Dabu
It is done with the block printing technique that uses the Dabu paste which is used as a resist medium. The paste is made from clay, sawdust, and guar gum. The process includes the phases of washing, hand printing, use of mud resist, and drying. It is a resist technique that is used to create a faded-colored design on a dark background. It originated in the state of Rajasthan. In this style Plants, flowers and different motifs are core components. Today, this technique is practiced in a lot of villages of Rajasthan.
There is a thriving tradition of hand block printing in India. This has resulted in several noteworthy dyeing techniques across India. This is a perfect example of a utilitarian art practiced by the masses.
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